I have made three trips to PNG, two of them each of six weeks duration. It is one of the most fascinating places left on the planet, and parts of it can be considered the most primitive (though that's all changing, of course). When I travel, it is almost always by myself. This allows me to meet and spend time with people I would otherwise pass by, and vice versa. Riding from Goroka down to Madang in a huge 4x4 with the man who at the time owned more "pokies" (poker gambling machines) than anyone else in the country, and making sure he had a gun for me as well as for himself (robberies on PNG highways are common) is not the sort of experience that is part of organized tours. Having the manager at Karawari in the central Sepik show me a heavy bracelet made from pure, rough-cast Mt. Kare gold is not part of the hotel routine. Walking the streets of Port Moresby is not the same as taking a bus tour. Especially when the biggest department store in town is invaded the day before by revenge-seeking highlanders who proceed to calmly hack to death a clerk (from the offending village) to satisfy a payback debt. The store is closed for day to, ahem, clean up. And so forth. Most important, having the time to sit and listen to expats, ex-kops, oil workers, and others tell me their stories, takes time. On a tour, the only stories you hear are from other tourists. | |